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Renaissance Costume Glossary - Page 1
Men's Renaissance Clothing Terms | Women's Renaissance Clothing Terms Renaissance Hats & Headwear Terms
Men's Clothing Terms
To aid you in deciphering the mysteries of Elizabethan Costumes and Fashion, we provide the following definition of commonly used terms:
- Breeches (brich-iz): a knee-length pair of pants or trousers common in the 17th century.
- Canions (kan-yens): tight, tubular garments which extended from the hem of Round Hose, Slops, or Trunk Hose, extending to the knee. Common in the second half of Queen Elizabeth's reign.
- Cassock (kas-uhk): a long coat, hip-length or longer, with a close fitting waist. Often worn in formal occasions or as part of ceremonial or liturgical dress.
- Coat (koht): an outer garment worn over a man's doublet, with armseyes, though the garment may be sleeveless or may feature long, decorative sleeves.
- Codpiece (kod-pees): a triangular flap on breeches used as a fly. In fancier garments, these could be elaborately decorated and padded to draw the eye.
- Cuirass (kwi-ras): a piece of plate armor designed to protect the torso consisting of a breastplate and backplate. Sometimes worn over a doublet in ceremonial dress.
- Doublet (duhb-lit): for men, a close-fitting waist-length jacket, either sleeveless or featuring tie-in sleeves, with a short peplum (see below) extending from the waistline. Doublet's could be front or side closing.
- Falling Collar (fawl-ing kol-er): a lace-trimmed turned-down collar, worn late in the late Elizabethan and early Jacobean periods in the place of a ruff.
- French Hose (french hohz): see Round Hose, below.
- Garter (gahr-ter): a clothing accessory used to hold up stockings. Garters can be small leather or fabric belts, or even ribbons tied cross-ways (called cross-gartering) over the stockings to secure them to the leg.
- Galligaskins (gal-i-gas-kinz): loose fitting breeches common to the 16th and 17th centuries.
- Gorget (gor-zay): a piece of plate armor designed to encircle and protect the throat. Often worn with a doublet on formal or ceremonial occasions.
- Gown (goun): a sleeveless long coat which would likely feature ornamental, even floor-length sleeves. Gowns could be common among specific to professions (such as academic wear) or worn as part of ceremonial or state dress.
- Hosen (hoh-zuhn): made from wool, cut on the bias, these close-fitting stockings were the base undergarment for most men. Noblemen might have knitted silk hosen, but these were prohibitively expensive.
- Jerkin (jur-kin): a waistcoat, or sleeveless vest, worn as an outer garment. In the case of a nobleman, it would likely be worn over his doublet for an extra layer. For peasants, it would likely be worn over the shirt as the outer garment in warmer weather.
- Pansied Slops (pan-sied slops): round hose characterized by the addition of a layer of panes, or strips of fabric running from the waistband to the legband. These are often referred to as "pumpkin" pants.
- Peplum (pepluhm): a short, decorative skirting or tabs attached at the waistline of a doublet or jerkin.
- Round Hose (round hohz): very full short breeches which varied in length from the upper thigh to just above the knee, giving a rounded look to the hips and showing off the leg.
- Ropon (rho-pawn): see Schuabe, below.
- Ruff (ruhf): a seperate garment consisting of a circular collar made from linen to which a series of figure-eight pleats are sewn, often edged in fancy lace. Early in the Elizabethan period, ruffs were modest in width, but by the late period they could measure close to 2 feet in diameter.
- Schuabe (schwab): an open coat with a turned back collar and revers, often lined in fur. The garment would feature a yoked back with pleated fullness across teh back.
- Shirt (shurt): the basic men's undergarment. Shirts were commonly constructed of linen and featured a standing band collar and cuffs. Ruffles may be sewn into the bands in fancier versions and they could be elaborately embroidered with blackwork.
- Slops (slops): wide, loose fitting breeches, similar to round hose.
- Surcote (sur-koht): a loose, waist-length sword cape with attached sleeves and a standing collar which was most often worn as a decorative overgarment.
- Tabard (tab-erd): a ceremonial garment, often decorated with the coat of arms of a nobleman and worn by his servants as livery on formal occasions.
- Trews (trooz): common amongst peasants and the lower classes, these full-length pants usually feature a drawstring waist. The lower half of pants legs are often tied to the legs with cording or strips of cloth.
- Trunk Hose (truhngk hohz): see Round Hose, above.
- Tunic (too-nik): a knee-length garment worn belted at the waist. Considered unfashionable by the late renaissance, the garment would be common amongst the very poor.
- Venetians (vuh-nee-shuhns): knee-length breeches with a full gather at the waist band and tapered to the knee, popular amongst the middle and upper classes. Often these feature decorative ties at the leg bands.
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